Federico Zuccaro - Self-Portrait - WGA26029

Spanish collar, ruff or gorgera first appeared about 1560, and was at first open at the neck. After 1570 it becomes closed. It was gradually increasing in diameter reaching 25-30 cm, and by the 1580s the collar became known as the “millstone” or “cartwheel” which required a supporting frame. The collar was made from layers of plaited linen or lace. The Dutchwoman Dangen van Pless at the court of the English Queen Elizabeth I introduced starch that was initially yellowish, which made the collars creamy. Some tinted them with saffron in a golden hue and dyed them with natural dyes in pink or lilac colors. The rigidity of gorgera forced its owner to keep his posture, and for his impracticality, ruff became a symbol of wealth and status and contributed to the spread of the fork, the use of which made it possible to protect the collar from soiling with food. Gorgers were banned in Spain by King Philip IV. Spain was involved in endless wars against the growing Protestant world and in desperate need for cash. Philip announced an austerity program, condemned extravagance, and introduced the concept of simple, pragmatic living. Forcing people to live pragmatically was fairly difficult. Eventually, the inquisition found a way - it banned the ruffed collars and starch, as a "tool of the devil". Alquacils, inquisition enforcers of justice, were armed with scissors and prowled the streets of Madrid enforcing the ban. Shops were raided and gorgera merchandise burned. By the middle of the 17th century, ruff had decreased in diameter and almost did not use starch. The fashion lingered longer in the Dutch Republic, where ruffs can be seen in portraits well into the seventeenth century. In Germany and Flanders, ruff was worn until the beginning of the 18th century. In the 18th century, it remained for a long time among the Jews as an obligatory part of the costume.

Federico Zuccaro (1540-1609) was an Italian painter and architect of the late Renaissance. He was born in Sant'Angelo in Vado, near Urbino, and trained in Rome under his older brother Taddeo Zuccaro. Federico Zuccaro is best known for his frescoes, which adorn many churches and palaces in Rome and other Italian cities. His most famous work is the dome of the church of Sant'Andrea della Valle in Rome, which he painted with scenes from the life of St Andrew. In addition to his work as a painter, Zuccaro was also an accomplished architect. He designed several buildings in Rome, including the Palazzo Zuccaro, which served as his home and studio. Zuccaro was a prominent figure in the artistic circles of late Renaissance Rome. He was a member of the Accademia di San Luca, a prestigious organisation for artists and architects, and was also a friend and collaborator of many of the leading artists of his time, including Michelangelo. Zuccaro died in Rome in 1609, and his legacy as one of the great painters and architects of the late Renaissance is still celebrated today.