Climbs and exploration in the Canadian Rockies (1903) (14774052445)

Identifier: climbsexploratio00stut (find matches)
Title: Climbs & exploration in the Canadian Rockies
Year: 1903 (1900s)
Authors: Stutfield, Hugh Edward Millington, 1858-1929. (from old catalog) Collie, Norman, 1859-1942, joint author
Subjects: Rocky mountains Mountaineering
Publisher: London, New York and Bombay, Longmans, Green and co.
Contributing Library: The Library of Congress
Digitizing Sponsor: The Library of Congress



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sur-rounded by fine hills and glaciers. Our attemptto ascend Mount Balfour from this camp, al-though a failure, furnished a most delightfulday—at least up to the time when Thompsonsought to investigate the lower layers of theice-sheet that covers Mount Gordon, by falHnghead-first down a deep crevasse. Early in theexpedition great battle was done with the ice-fall that descends from the higher snow-fieldstowards the Upper Bow Lake. One party withfine, if unnecessary, courage, cut its way throughthe centre of the ice-fall, whilst the other, underthe guidance of Sarbach, basely refused the en-counter and fled along sideways to where theycould ignominiously skirt round the end and,with the minimum expenditure of energy, flankthe foe. Coming out on to this upper snow-field, a charming snow-clad peak was seen to the south, apparently not diflicult of ascent;obviously Mount Balfour! Accordingly oflthe whole party started across the nearly level snows for the lower slopes of the mountain. 28
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THE WAPUTEHK SNOW-FIELD The summit was reached by climbing up theeastern arete; but alas! four miles away to the south was the real Mount Balfour, andbetween lay a deep gulf. Still it had been amost delightful climb over a hitherto untroddenpiece of ice-field; and certainly no one hadbeen to the summit of Mount Gordon before.The height was 10,600 feet. As usual, in everydirection lay a perfect sea of snow-clad peaks,with hardly a name to any of them. ProfessorFay, however, suggested that there was amountain, supposed to be very high and namedMurchison, somewhere towards the north. Ithad been seen by Dr. Hector forty years before.So a splendid pyramid-shaped peak, obviouslyhigher than the rest, was picked out, and it wasconcluded that this was Mount Murchison.More to the west a flatter-topped mountain,somewhat nearer, was given the name MountMummery. Some time was spent on the top, but, as there was another summit about a third of a mile to the westward, several of the party started off